streda, 8. januára 2014

Merry-Different Christmas: How is Christmas celebrated in Spain?

Tak. Konečne si už aj ľudia v Španielsku rozdali darčeky a je oficiálne po Vianociach. Preto som sa už aj ja donútila napísať všetky seminárky, ktorým som sa úspešne vyhýbala (resp. lenivosť ma vždy prehovorila, že mám ešte kóóóópu času). Začínam už aj riešiť papierovačky kvôli druhému semestru v zahraničí (Juchú) a mala by som začať už aj riadne učiť, keďže nanešťastie aj skúšky sa blížia (Uf, mám pocit, že ani zďaleka neviem čo ma čaká). Ale vrátim sa k Vianociam. 
Rozdiely? Milión. Zaujímavé? Bez debaty! 

24.12 - Tento dátum bol vždy pre mňa akosi magický. Pravda je, čím som staršia čaro sa vytráca. Každoročne sú Vianoce viac a viac uponáhľané ale tento rok som as aspoň pred 24tým tomu stresu vyhla. Štedrý deň ma ale obišli všetky typické vianočné rozprávky aj tradičné vianočné pesničky. Na moje začudovanie ani čakanie na zlaté prasiatko sa nekonalo (niežeby som bola veľký vyznávač tejto tradície). Počula som, že vraj niekde na španielskych televíznych kanáloch dávajú doobeda v štedrovečerný deň Tri oriešky pre Popolušku ale nejako som to nezastihla. Mohlo by to byť každopádne zaujímavé počuť typické frázy, ktoré poznám snáď aj naspamäť po španielsky. Takže na obed (podotýkam o tretej poobede) sme sa normálne najedli ako vždy. Keď som na internete videla statusy o rozbaľovaní darčekov tu bolo ešte vonku svetlo a o štedrovečernej hostine ani pol slova nepadlo. Zhruba o 19tej poobede sme sa začali chystať, obliekať, šminkovať. O pol deviatej všetci pekne vyobliekaní, vyvoňaní sme sa nastavali pred dvere smer rodné mestečko rodičov môjho priateľa. Štedrý večer sme oslavovali na spoločnej chate, neviem ako by som to správne nazvala. Je to jeden dom kde sa vždy stretáva celá rodina na obedoch, večeriach, grilovačkách a podobne. Večera začala zhruba o trištvrte na desať. Prosím pekne bolo nás 14! Toto bolo niečo čo som nikdy v živote nevidela, štedrovečerná večera so 14timi ľuďmi. Večera pozostávala s najlepších olív, najlepších syrov, najlepších šuniek (jamón), najlepších salámov, najlepších pašték. Všetko zatiaľ len predjedlo. Pri tejto časti sme sa všetci rozprávali (nebola som zrovna spíkerkou roka ale zase som ani nesedela v kúte, našťastie som sa už ako tak naučila rozumieť ich Cordobskému prízvuku). A pri tejto časti sa rozdávali tzv. malé darčeky. Celá rodina dostala rukavice (ja také krásne s mašličkou od priateľovej maminy), muži rodiny sekt a ženy rodiny drobnosti. Po tomto prišiel druhý chod, na moje prekvapenie to bolo stále len predjedlo. Bol to akýsi šalát z kreviet a zeleniny. Podotýkam, pri tomto chode som už ledva dýchala a hodiny sa prešvihli k takmer 23tej. ( :D ) Po tomto chode prišli na rad akési steaky robené na ohni s plneným zapekaným zemiakom a nakoniec sme sa dokázali prehupnúť k dezertu, čo bola zmrzlina. Po tomto mali nasledovať ešte sladkosti ale tomu som sa úspešne vyhla. Samozrejme pivo alebo víno chýbať nemohlo. Po tomto nastala tá "zábavnejšia" časť. Karaoke. Donútili ma spievať, nedalo sa ujsť. O takej jednej sa mladšia generácia vytratila na štedrovečernú párty, ktorá mala končiť o 7 ráno!!! Pravda dovtedy sme s priateľom nevydržali, o pol šiestej sme to zabalili na slušňákov. Staršia generácia ostala do pol piatej spievať na chate!!! Čiže klobúk dolu. 

31.12 - Na rozdiel od Štedrého dňa je Silvester oslavovaný v menšom kruhu rodiny. V tento deň sme obedovali ich typickú Paellu (ryža s typickou príchuťou, pridáva sa buď mäso alebo morské plody) v kruhu susedov. V dome majú niečo ako bar a tam sa zišli všetci susedia na "pokec" a zaželanie si krásneho nového roku. Prípravy na večer sa začali zhruba o 21ej hodine a o 22 sme začali večerať. Zase som nevedela čo ma čaká ohľadom jedla. Vravíme si ako sa Slováci prejedajú na sviatky. Po tejto skúsenosti, vlastne ak nerátam majonézový šalát, jeme veľmi striedmo. Pochutnávali sme si zase na najlepších šunkách, syroch, paštékach, krevetách, olivách a celkovo takých "tapas" (malé ako keby jednohubky). Nasledovali krokety z merlúzy (croquetas de merluza - neviem čo je, nejaká ryba) a krokety z býčieho chvosta (croquetas de rabo de toro). Už som si zvykla na tieto býčie a rybie srandy, takže už ma nič neprekvapuje. Ako hlavné jedlo sme zase mali niečo ako steak z hovädziny aj s bravčoviny so zemiakmi (tu sa človek nestane len tak vegetariánom).  A ako dezert sme mali krém z ich typického turrón-u. Turrón tu predávajú na Vianoce na každom kroku, vyzerá to ako čokoláda ale je to vlastne mäsa z cukru, mandlí s rôznymi príchuťami. Najväčšia zmena nastala pri privítaní Nového roku. Žiadne nevinné odpočítavanie Nového roku. S každým úderom zvonu sa musí zjesť jedna bobuľa hrozna. Prvá ma napadla otázka koľkí sa asi už udusili v duchu tejto tradície. Ale musím povedať podarilo sami to bez úrazu a dokonca s posledným úderom zvona, a teda s Novým rokom, som to mala všetko zjedené. Nasledovalo tradičné štrngnutie s pohármi drahého sektu a objímanie a objímanie. Tu nás ale bolo len 7 pri stole. A tradične nasledoval chod menom "copas" - drinky :D Znova mladšia generácia okolo jednej odišla na novoročné párty a tá staršia oslavovala doma s priateľmi. Tentokrát sme to však zvládali do pol ôsmej rána... veď predsa nový rok sme zahanbiť nemohli. Typický ranný novoročný zvyk sú "churros" - niečo ako naše šišky s čokoládou, ale k tomu sme sa nedostali pretože tam bolo milión ľudí a naozaj sa nám nechcelo stáť ráno o pol ôsmej vo fronte. A takmer by som zabudla, ďalšia vec, ktorá bola úplne odlišná bola absencia ohňostrojov. Boli, ale neporovnateľne málo. Doma by som ledva počula vlastné slovo s úderom Nového roka, tu bolo až neprirodzené ticho, čo by som na španielov ozaj nepovedala. 

6.1 - Tento sviatok sa v mimo-kresťanskom meradle napríklad u nás na Slovensku až tak neoslavuje. Veriaci idú na omše a na dvere sa píšu začiatočné písmená Troch kráľov pre šťastie ale to je asi tak všetko. Naproti tomu tu je to asi ten najdôležitejší sviatok. Pri mojom googlení som zistila, že tento sviatok podobne oslavujú aj v Mexiku (nič prekvapivé) ale nikde inde (samozrejme môžem sa mýliť, lebo zase až toľko pozornosti som výskumu nevenovala). 5.1 podvečer sú všetci ľudia a najmä deti vonku pretože v centre veľkých miest sú obrovské sprievody s rozprávkovými vozmi, postavičkami (tento rok sme videli napríklad žltých minionov z Ja, zloduch 2 alebo postavičky Angry birds) a nakoniec aj s vozmi Troch kráľov. Každý z týchto vozov hádže obrovské množstvo cukríkov a v niektorých mestách aj rôzne malé darčeky. V menších mestách a dedinkách zase chodia Traja králi v menších sprievodoch a dávajú deťom darčeky priamo z rúk do rúk. V Málage sa doslovne nedalo dýchať ani hýbať a to nespomínam takmer bitku o cukríky. Podarilo sa mi nejaké zozbierať ale v porovnaní s ostatnými som bola len chabý začiatočník. Večer deti idú skoro spať lebo v noci prichádzajú Traja králi s darčekmi, spravidla s tromi darčekmi. Deti si ich rozbaľujú až ráno. 6 sú celé rodiny vonku, deti sa hrajú s darčekmi, ktoré dostali a je sa typický koláč "Roscón" - neviem ako by som tento koláč popísala. Je to ako keby veľká sladká okrúhla bageta, rozrezaná napoly a v nej je veľká kopa krému, záleží aký má kto rád. Vnútri sú zapečené dve veci. Jedna fazuľa - hra hovorí, že ten kto ju nájde platí celý koláč a jedna figúrka, my sme mali figúrku žabiaka a ten kto ju nájde pri jedení je kráľ. Ja som našla aj fazuľu aj figúrku takže to bola náhoda a tak som sa odfotila aj s pribalenou korunkou :D 
A aby som nezabudla, od 2 do 5 januára tu prebieha nákupné šialenstvo!!! Všetci sa snažia nakúpiť čo najlepšie vianočné darčeky. V každom obchode sú rady až von a ulice sú preplnené, tzv. hlava na hlave. 
Ale musím povedať, že každá tá minúta strávená tu stála za to!
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So. Finally, also people in Spain handed out the gifts and officialy it is after Christmas. Therefore, I have forced myself to write my terms, which I before successfully avoided (or laziness has always spoken to me that I still have a looot of time). I´ve already started to deal with the paperwork for the second semester abroad (Yoo-hoo) and I really should begin to study, because, unfortunately, the exams are coming (Ugh, I feel that I do not know what to expect from that). But now today´s topic - my Christmas here. 
Differences? Million. Interesting? Without doubts!

24.12 - This date has always been magical to me. But the truth is, the older I´m, the charm vanishes faster. Christmas are every year more and more in the rush but at least this year I avoided all of the stress. This year I bypassed all of the typical Christmas stories, fairytales and all of the traditional Christmas songs. For my surprise, the waiting for the golden piglet was omitted too (not that I was a great devotee of this tradition). So this day for lunch (I note it was on 3pm), we have normally eaten as always. When I saw on the internet states about unpacking of the gifts, here was still ligth outside of the windows. About 8.30pm, we were all nicely dressed up and we were standing in the hall on our way to my boyfriend's parents birth village. Christmas Eve we celebrated in the house, where whole familly always meet to dinner, to have barbecues and so on. Dinner began roughly a quarter to ten and we were 14 persons!!! This was something I had never seen in my life. Christmas Eve with the 14 people. Dinner consisted of the best olives, best cheeses, the best hams(jamón), best sausages and the best pâté. But everything was still only an appetizer. In this part of dinner we all talked (ok, I was not exactly speaker of the year but also I did not sit in the corner, fortunately I've learned how to understand their accent in Córdoba). In this part of dinner they also gave to each other small presents. For example the whole family got gloves(me also, Ive got lovely gloves with ribbon from my boyfriend's mom), the men of familly got some sect and the women some small presents. After this came the second course, to my surprise it was still (!!!) just an appetizer. It was a shrimp salad with some vegetables. I need to underline that in this part I barely took my breath and the clock was already almost on the 11pm. After this we had some kind of steaks done on the fire with filled baked potatoes and finally we managed it to the dessert, which was an ice cream. Further all this should continue with sweets but I avoided it successfully. Of course, beer or wine could not be missing on the table. And there started the "fun" part. Karaoke. Unfortunately, they forced me to sing, was not possible to run from it. About 1am young generation disappeared to attend some Christmas Eve´s party, which was about to finish at 7 in the morning! The truth is that until that we could not handle it, so about half past five we took our things and headed to beds. Anyway, the older generation remained with karaoke until half past four in the morning! So hats off for them.

31.12 - Unlike Christmas Eve, New Year's Eve is celebrated in a smaller family circle. On this day, we lunched their typical paella (rice with typical flavor, with either meat or seafood ) in a circle of neighbors. The building has something like a bar and there got toghether all the neighbors to "chat" and to wish everyone a Happy New Year. Preparations for the evening began around 9pm. At 10 o'clock in the afternoon we started dinner. We in Slovakia say that we over-eat a lot during holidays. After this experience I think, actually, not counting mayonnaise salad, we eat very sparingly. We again enjoyed the best ham, cheese, pâté ,shrimp ,olives and generally all was in  "tapas" style (small portions of food). Followed by hake croquettes (croquetas de merluza - I do not know what it is exactlly but it is some fish) and bull tail croquettes (croquetas de rabo de toro). I've already got used to these bull and fish things, so it did not surprise me. As main course we again had something like steak from beef and pork with potatoes (here a person really does not become a vegetarian). And for dessert we had the cream of their typical Turrón - it is sold at Christmas in every shop, it looks like a chocolate but it's actually made from sugar, almonds and it has various flavors. The biggest change occurred at midnight. No innocent countdown of the New Year. With each stroke of the bell person must eat one grape berry. The first question I could think about was how many persons have been strangled in the spirit of this tradition. But I have to tell, I nailed it without injury and even with the last stroke of the bell, thus the New Year, I had every berries eaten. It was followed by traditional clink with glasses of an expensive champagne and hugging and hugging. But this time we were only 7 at the table. All of this was traditionally followed with the operation named "Copas" - drinks :D Again the younger generation about 1pm dissappeared on the way to the New Year's party, and the older generations stayed home and celebrated with friends. This time we somehow managed it to 7.30am ... After all, we couldnt shame the New Year. There is one typical early New Year's morning custom. They eat in the morning on the way from party "churros" - it is something like donuts with hot chocolate, but we did not get it because there were like a million people and we really did not want to stand in the morning about half past seven in the queue. Aaaa I almost forgot, another thing that was radically different was the absence of fireworks. They were, but incomparably less. At home in Slovakia I would barely hear my own words with the strokes of the New Year, there was more like unnatural silence. Which I would really not tell that the Spaniards are quite.

6.1 - This festive day in the non-Christian scale is not celebrated in Slovakia. Believers in Slovakia go to mass, and on the doors are written the initials of the Three Kings for happiness but that's all. On the contrary, here it is probably the most important day. When I did my Google research I found that this holiday are celebrated very similarly in Mexico (not surprising) but nowhere else (of course I could be wrong, I did not pay that much of attention to this research). On the evening of 5th of january are all people, especially children outdoors because at the centres of big cities are huge parades with fairy-tale carriages, characters from fairytales (this year we have seen, for example, yellow minions of Despicable Me or characters of Angry Birds) and, finally, with carriages of Three Kings. Each of these cars is throwing a huge amount of sweets and in some cities also some small gifts. In smaller towns and villages The Three Kings walk in smaller parades and they give to children various gifts directly from hand to hand. In Málaga was literally not possible to breathe or move in this crowd and not to mention a battle for candies. I managed to collect some of them but compared to others I was just a poor beginner. In the evening children go to bed early because at night come the Three Kings with gifts, usually with three gifts. Children unwrap them in the morning. On the 6th of january is the whole family outdoor, children are playing with their gifts that they have received and they eat typical cake "Roscón" - I do not know how I would describe this cake. It's like a big, round, sweet baguette, cut in half and there is a big pile of cream with some taste. Inside are usually two things baked. One is bean - the game says that who finds bean is going to pay the whole cake. Second thing is one figurine, we had a figurine of little frog and the game says that who finds this is a king. I have found a piece of bean and also the frog so it was pretty nice coincidence so I did a picture of me with a crown which is included there with ´Roscón´. :D And I almost forget, from january 2th to 5th here exists a shopping frenzy! Everyone is trying to buy the best Christmas gifts. In every store there are the lines to the outside of the shop and the streets are crowded.



 Novoročné bobule hrozna/New Year´s berries of grape
Pripravený Novoročný stôl/ Prepared New Years table
Ja s korunkou na Troch kráľov/ Me with crown of Three Kings 
Trojkráľový koláč/Three Kings cake - "Roscón" 

Vianočná koláž - sladkosti, hlavné jedlo, krevetový šalát, vianočný stôl
 Christmas collage - sweets, main meal, shrimp salad, christmas table





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